Lights and Shades of Pioneer Life on Puget Sound, By A Native Son
George E. Blankenship
Transcribed by Roger Easton
Transcriber’s notes:
Lights And Shades of Pioneer Life on Puget Sound, was published in limited edition by
George E. Blankenship in 1923. In 1972, Shorey’s Book Store in Seattle printed only 100
facsimile editions. Blankenship’s book offers a rare glimpse into life on Puget Sound
many years ago.
As always, spelling, out-of-date grammatical rules, and words than have gone out of
modern usage has been left as Blankenship wrote them. Unfortunately, as a product of its
time, this text also includes denigrating references to Indians and other minorities. No
attempt has been made to delete or re-write these passages to soften the author’s words,
which remain in their historical context. From Blankenship’s forward of Tillicum Tales,
Thurston County, another valuable local historical reference used by researchers today,
he says of himself,
“As I am not myself a pioneer, or in the proper conception of the term, an early settler, it
may be necessary to explain why I should intrude in a field more properly the work of
others. As one who crossed the plains three times in an ox wagon, and whose parents
were inured to the hardships of frontier life, I myself took a deep interest in this subject.
Upon coming to Puget Sound I found the ranks of the pioneers decreasing rapidly. With
the modesty characteristic of this race of hardy empire builders, they had not appreciated
the value of their work and its import to their posterity.”
So, Blankenship’s opinion and bias against Native Americans was shaped by living
among many of the veteran’s of the Indian Wars of 1855-56, and from stories of difficult
encounters experienced crossing the plains in earlier days.
I wish to express my gratitude to The Bigelow House Preservation Association,
[www.bigelowhouse.org] who recently found a copy buried deep within the many books
collected by the Bigelow family. The Bigelows were no doubt friends of Mr.
Blankenship. BHPA graciously allowed the transcriber to borrow the book to do this
transcription, and to Edward Echtle, Director of the Association for help in formatting
this effort.
-Roger Easton
Lights and Shades of Pioneer Life on Puget Sound
Contents
A Marine Disaster – Pages 5 – 10
-Judge McFadden’s Popularity Demonstrated
-The Volunteers Poorly Equipped
-Olympia Once Ruled a Vast Domain
-Seattle’s First Newspaper
An Unfortunate Misnomer – Pages 11 -14
-The First Mail Route
-A Historical Steamboat
-The First Railroad
Gov. Stevens’ Arrival in the Territory – Pages 15 – 22
-Celebrities Identified With Early History
-Origin of Geographical Names
Women in Pioneer Life – Pages 23 – 27
-Hardship and Privation Borne Unflinchingly
-Olympia Girls that Gained Notoriety
The First Circus – Pages 28 – 31
-An International Baseball Game
-Enthusiastic Reception of Good War News
First Governor’s Reception – Pages 32 – 36
-Some Divorces Abuse
-Early History of Woman Suffrage
-Scarcity of Women Deplored
An Enterprising Preacher – Pages 37- 40
A Reluctant Bridegroom
A President’s Wife in an Indian Camp
Washington Territory is Organized – Pages 41 – 44
-Territorial Capital Located at Olympia
-Early Political Campaigns
First Catholic Mission – Pages 45 – 48
-Civilizing the Young Indians
-A Mission Converted Into a City Park
Life on the Plains – Pages 49 – 52
-A Pioneer By the Pacific Ocean
-Cook Stove Sold to Provide Circus Money
A Degraded Idol – Pages 53 – 55
-A Northern Shrine Now Serving As A Park Ornament
-A Plutonic Fall
The Pioneer as a Weather Profit – Pages 56 – 59
-A Secret Order Now Defunct
-Old Settler A Politician by Nature
First Fourth of July Celebration – Pages 60 – 63
-Militant Preachers With Brawn
-Sample of Early Day Journalism
Early Newspaper Publications – Pages 64 – 67
-A Virile Style of Journalism in Vogue in Washington Territory
Strange Case of S. W. Hall – Pages 68 – 71
-A Tennyson Poem Paraphrased
-A Diplomatic Kentucky Judge
Early Musical Organizations – Pages 72 – 75
-A Buckskin Cayuse With a Bad Disposition
-Humiliating a Beau Brummel
A Sensational Murder – Pages 76 – 78
-Many Changes in Geographical Names
-Editorial Courtesy Not Characteristic
The Indians – 79 – 82
Fruition of Pioneer Effort – 83 – 84
Past and Present – 85 – 86
Bench, Bar and Pulpit – 97 – 90
Pg4
A Marine Disaster
Judge McFadden’s Popularity Demonstrated. The Volunteers Poorly Equipped. Olympia
Once Ruled a Vast Domain. Seattle’s First Newspaper.
Pg5
Many years ago before Seattle had become a town of considerable importance a cemetery
was established out north of the city. At that time it was remote, but with the passing of
years and the gradual development of small logging and lumbering town into a
metropolis, the residence districts expanded until now this cemetery is completely
surrounded by the city. Engraved on the stones in this cemetery are many names that in
the past have been identified with the settlement, the village, the town, the city. Passing
through this sacred plot a short time wince the writer’s attention was attracted by a
monument on the base of which was written the name, Capt. Jefferson D. Howell. This
name recalled the first marine disaster occurring on the north Pacific coast so terrible as
to cast a cloud of gloom over the whole Puget Sound country and across the line into
Victoria.
The Steamship Pacific left Victoria at 9:30 a.m., November 4, 1875, enroute to San
Francisco. On the evening of that same day she collided with the schooner Orpheus,
Capt. Sawyer, sinking almost immediately, leaving two survivors out of a passenger list
of over 200. So near to the port from which she sailed did the disaster occur, that
Pg6
the return tide brought back the body of a young woman to the door of her former home
on Vancouver Island. The Pacific was commanded by Capt. Jeff D. Howell, a relative of
Jefferson Davis, President of the Southern Confederacy. Howell was formerly in the
Confederate navy.
It was a peaceful night, and the conditions were such as to make the reasons for the
calamity inexplicable. The Orpheus proceeded on her way, not laying by to offer
assistance. This created bitter feeling toward Sawyer. He made a Statement saying he
came on deck when he realized that his vessel was rapidly changing her course. His
vessel was thrown into such a position as to bring her to a comparative standstill. He saw
the steamer coming on and thought she would change her course to avoid accident. She
blew her whistle and continued to come on. When the collision occurred he ordered
examination of his vessel. It was reported that she was rapidly filling. Before he learned
that this was not true the steamer had disappeared and, he supposed, had continued on her
course, and he blamed the Captain of the steamship for not standing by to learn the
condition of the schooner. All of which was a very unlikely story, when one considers
that 200 people were drowning all about him on a clear night.
The survivors of the Pacific were Quartermaster Neil Henley and a passenger named
Henry F. Jelly. Henley was rescued after floating eighty-four hours on the wreckage.
Jelly was picked up by the bark Messenger, the second day after the catastrophe. Henley
said he was off watch and came on deck when the collision occurred. He found the
Captain and his first and second officers attempting to clear the boats, but the panic
prevented effective work. Fifteen men and six women were in the first boat lowered, but
it struck the side of the ship, was crushed and in this accident a child was killed. Henley
got on a skylight and was picked up by a party of eight on a large piece of wreckage. In
the party was Capt. Howell. The cries of the perishing were now stilled. One by one
Henley’s companions succumbed to exposure, until he was left alone.
Pg7
Sawyer continued on his course and piled his vessel up on the west coast of Vancouver
Island. No lives were lost. The Pacific carried about $80,000 in treasure. She had as
passengers a number of northern miners who doubtless carried on their persons large
amounts of gold.
* * * *
The most popular man in the politics of Washington Territory was Judge O. B.
McFadden. Especially was this true in Thurston County, where he had long made his
home. It remained for him to defeat the eloquent Garfielde and break the power of a ring,
which had long dominated the affairs in the Territory. The campaign of this memorable
contest was drawing to a close and McFadden was to arrive on a certain date to address
personal friends and neighbors. On that day every man, woman and child in Olympia, in
vehicles of various characters, on horseback and on foot, wended his or her way to Bush
Prairie to meet the Sage of Saunder’s Bottom, as he came by way of stage coach.
Olympia was then a very wide open town, almost as much so then as now, and possessed
a number of gamblers. Among these was a man named Saunders – handsome, a good
dresser, accomplished, well educated, a living impersonation of Bret Harte’s famous
character, Jack Hamblin. He was a great admirer of McFadden, and the showiest team
and carriage in the long procession to greet the coming Delegate was driven by Saunders,
with a few of his professional friends as convivial companions. A presumptuous boy of
twelve asked the sporting element to take him along, to which they readily agreed. Going
down Tumwater hill there was a little delay, during which Saunders produced a bottle.
An old stage driver was driving a coach just ahead, and with an instinct characteristic of
his race, smelled the bottle, and waved Saunders to drive alongside and divide, which he
did. A lady in the coach eyed the proceedings disapprovingly and sternly said, “Driver,
let me out. I will not ride with a man that drinks.” Saunders, with a smile, dropped his
lines, stepped out and
Pg8
opened the door of the coach. Throwing his handsome overcoat in the mud, with a
Chesterfieldian bow, he said, “Madam, permit me to be your Sir Walter Raleigh.” A just
rebuke to a prude by a gambler.
* * * *
The volunteers in the Indian wars of Washington were poorly equipped in every way,
particularly was this true in regard to mounts. The number of horses was inadequate and
poor stock. Mules were not uncommon. The sale of the Ruth farm at Rainier recently
recalls an incident not unrelated to Frank Ruth, a better man than whom never lived. A
small detachment of mounted men had a narrow escape from being ambushed by a large
band of Indians, a condition that suggests that discretion is the better part of valor. The
whites turned and commenced a masterly retreat, every man for himself. One man was
mounted on a mule. A mule can go if he wants to, but he must be inspired. This
particular mule, although prodded unmercifully, refused to respond, whereupon the rider
called out to those ahead, “Hold on, boys; we can lick ’em. Hell, boys, do you want to
live forever?” About then the tide in the affairs of that mule took a turn. He wanted
solitude and proposed to find it. Whereupon the rider called back to his comrades,
“Come on, boys, if you want to save your ha’r.”
* * * *
Olympia was once the capital of a vast domain – all that country included between the
mouth of the Columbia and the 49th parallel, thence easterly along that parallel to the
Rocky Mountains. In 1862 Idaho was organized and Montana was set apart in 1864,
reducing Washington Territory to the present boundaries of the State.
* * * *
The first newspaper to carry a Seattle date line was published in Olympia August 15,
1863, by James R. Watson.
Pg9
Olympia was by far the most important town in the Territory at that time. Watson was
evidently far-sighted, for he took copies of his paper to Seattle and met with so much
encouragement that he established himself in the future metropolis and issued the first
copy of his paper December 10, 1863. It was printed in the second story of a building on
the southwest corner of what is now Yesler Way and First Avenue South.
* * * *
The cootie-infested Indian, with all his filth, was possessed with a certain amount of
vanity. A pioneer was building a house back in the ’60s. An Indian applied for a job,
and was put to work with the understanding that he was to receive a shirt for his pay. It
may be well to state in passing that his old clothes and victuals were usually the medium
of exchange between whites and Indians. The first Indian had no sooner gone to work
than a second one applied. The pioneer said that there were no more jobs, as he had but
one shirt. The quick-witted wife was always ready to meet an emergency. This
condition was a necessary result of the pioneer training. She told the husband to put the
Siwash to work and she would provide the shirt. On completion of the job the first Indian
was presented with his shirt and put it on, where it was destined to remain until it dropped
off. The second Indian was met by the ingenious wife with a flour sack, opened at one
end and with holes cut in the other for head and arms. However, the result was not
satisfactory, as the first Indian felt he had been discriminated against when he discovered
the manly breast of his compatriot decorated with black and red letters reading: “Extra
Family XXX. Tumwater Mills.”
* * * *
The Indian was an eager searcher after truth and in a way responded to religious teaching,
though the primal instinct would often crop out. A certain Indian, the protégé of a devout
minister, was taught the doctrine: If thine
Pg10
enemy hunger, give him bread; if he thirsteth, give him drink. He was also told that he
must pray for his enemies, thereby heaping coals of fire on their heads. Under the
tutelage of his reverend master he was one day praying assiduously, and continued to
pray until the preceptor, growing impatient, told the devout supplicant that he had prayed
sufficiently for his enemies. The Indian ceased long enough to interpolate: “I pray some
more. I burn ’em to the ground.”
Pg11
An Unfortunate Misnomer
The First Mail Route. An Historical Steamboat. The First Railroad.
The selection of “Thurston” as the name for Thurston County was a sad mistake. No
man identified with the history of Oregon Territory is entitled to as much credit and
gratitude for his brave and charitable attitude as John McLaughlin. Many of the early
settlers were destitute of food when they arrived at their destination in the fall. Dr.
McLaughlin opened the doors of the Hudson Bay Company’s warehouses to them,
notwithstanding the fact that the settlers were inimicable to his interests as a fur trader,
and necessarily to those of his company. Not only that, but the Doctor finally lost his
position as the Chief Factor because he showed such great liberality towards the settlers,
when the English company thought they should be left to starve as a deterrent example
for future immigrants. Samuel R. Thurston, first Delegate to Congress from Oregon
Territory, and for whom this county was named, was an unjust and bitter enemy of
McLaughlin. Thurston County would have been McLaughlin County, honoring a man
who was so deserving in contrast to one to whom the country owes nothing.
* * * *
Prior to the year 1853 the sparse population of Olympia and vicinity was without any
regular means of communication with the outside world. The Sound country then
constituted the northern part of Oregon and was isolated. Many of the villages or
settlements were many miles from
Pg12
the seat of government, and under such conditions the settlers here received little
consideration from the Territorial Legislature, though at this time it was considered that
Lewis County, that section north of the Cowlitz, contained 300 inhabitants. Thurston
County was partitioned from Lewis in 1853.
Newspapers from San Francisco arrived at irregular intervals, by sailing vessels, months
after date of publication. It was an event calling forth universal rejoicing when a mail
route was finally established in 1853, by means of a stage line, leaving Olympia every
Tuesday, connecting with boats or canoes on the Cowlitz for Portland. Later, however,
B. F. Yantis and A. B. Rabbeson formed a partnership for the purpose of running a stage
line and advertised to land passengers at the river in the marvelously quick time of twelve
hours.
The trail made by the early pioneers was widened and dignified with the name of a road,
but such a road as made the trip from the headwaters of Puget Sound to the Columbia
river frequently thrilling, but always a hardship. In the summer the picturesque old stage
coach was used, but in the long wet months, when the road was well nigh impassible, a
dead-ex wagon was used. A stage driver, being asked by a tenderfoot the means of
conveyance, said: “Well, we use a coach when we can, but there are two seasons on
Puget Sound; eight months of winter and the other four months d—d late in the fall, so
we generally use a wagon.” Expense of the trip, $20 to Portland. If you were a male
passenger and able-bodied, however, the payment of this money did not exempt you from
lending a hand with an axe to clear the road of a fallen tree or put a shoulder to the wheel
to pry your conveyance out of a mud hole.
Having endured the trip from Portland the traveler would reach the little village of
Tumwater and then threaded a narrow road, knee-deep in mud through a dense forest to
what there was of Olympia 65 years ago. If his expectations had led him to ambitious
heights, on viewing the capital
Pg13
city and metropolis of Puget Sound, he was doomed to bitter disappointment. Looking
down from the top of the hill at the head of Main street there was viewed a dismal and
forlorn scene. A low neck of land running down into the bay, along it stretching a muddy
track, winding among stumps standing thickly on either side. Possibly twenty small
wooden houses bordered the road, while back of them on the left and next to the shore
were a number of Indian lodges, with canoes drawn up on the beach, the scene plentifully
interspersed with dogs, which in turn were plentifully interspersed with fleas. The latter a
discovery made on a nearer approach. Only two shacks appeared above Sixth Street.
In 1854 a tri-weekly stage service to Cowlitz was inaugurated. Steamer connection was
also made for all ports or settlements on Puget Sound. The steamers of those days were
always advertised as “fast and commodious,” a very deceptive term, for the steamer that
could make twelve miles an hour was rare and the accommodations remarkable for
absence.
The headquarters of the stage line was a large barn on the present site of the city hall,
[2007 – NW corner State and Capitol Way] and opposite stood Olympia’s leading hotel,
the Pacific House, owned and conducted by a colored lady named Rebecca Howard. She
gained an enviable reputation by catering to the none-too-fastidious travelers whose
appetites had been sharpened by an ever-jolting ride of ten hours over corduroy roads.
“Aunty Becky” was a familiar name for Mrs. Howard, which she good naturedly allowed
from some. But if “Aunty” was applied to her by a stranger she would go up like a
human balloon and dignifiedly reply, “Aunty! By the way was I sister to your father or
your mother?”
* * * *
One of the historical water crafts of the early days was the Eliza Anderson, mail and
passenger steamer on the Olympia-Victoria route. She left Olympia immediately after 12
o’clock Sunday night (the Captain was a staunch
Pg14
Methodist) and arrived back some time the following Friday night. She touched en route
at Steilacoom, Seattle, a hamlet consisting of a saw mill and a few cabins scattered along
the water front; Port Madison, Port Gamble, Port Ludlow, Port Townsend, Victoria.
Fare, $15, meals and berth extra. What with passenger fares, freight and cattle traffic, it
is safe to say the Anderson made her weight in gold.
Puget Sound in those remote days, was traversed by comparatively few steam crafts, and
they were crude and unreliable affairs. Boiler inspection not being compulsory,
explosions were not uncommon. A tug, on the upper Sound, with logs in tow, was one
day wrecked by such an explosion. The Captain, who was also pilot, was scalded and
brought to Olympia for treatment. He made the following Finnegan-like report to
headquarters at Port Gamble: “Resolute blown up; boom gone to hell, and I’m at the
Pacific Hotel.”
When, in the ’70s, the Northern Pacific railroad was built with terminus at Tacoma,
Olympia was fifteen miles from steel rails. The Port Townsend Southern, a narrow
gauge, was built by the people of Olympia to connect with the Northern Pacific at
Tenino. Really fast and commodious steamers churned the Sound, and the old walking
beam steamers of primitive type were tied up to rot, if they had not already found a
watery grave through a defective boiler.
The Anderson was tied up at Seattle until the Alaska rush created a demand for her. She
made the trip up but never returned. Her bones are bleaching on Alaska’s bleak coast.
Pg15
Gov. Steven’s Arrival in the Territory
Celebrities Identified With Early History. Origin of Geographical Names
Much of the history of Washington was made in the portion of Olympia on Main street
[Capitol Way] and included between Second [Thurston] and Third [State Street] Streets.
It was here, on the east side of the street, that the first Territorial Legislature met, and
opposite, in a one-story frame building, much of the office work of the survey for the
transcontinental railroad was done, in part by Captain Geo. B. McClellan, who was one
of the party, under Gov. Stevens, who made the survey. McClellan, later commander of
the Union Army during the civil war, was removed from his command by President
Lincoln on account of his never-ready tactics. This reputation he fully sustained while in
Washington Territory. He was sent ahead to survey a wagon road through the Natchez
Pass to the Sound, and to let a contract for a wagon road from Walla Walla to Fort
Steilacoom. He accomplished nothing and reported the route impracticable. McClellan
failed a second time, when ordered to go through Snoqualmie Pass and complete a
survey, though the work was later accomplished by a subordinate officer.
* * * *
One of Olympia’s first hotels was also located in this district, and it was here Gov.
Stevens stopped on reaching the capital. Great preparations were made for the
Governor’s reception. He arrived ahead of his party and in an unostentatious way asked
for admission to the dining room. He was informed that there was no time to lose on
strangers, as they were “getting ready for a great doin’s.”
Pg16
Saying he was very hungry, Stevens asked for a snack in the kitchen, which was
furnished him. He then went outside, where he met a stranger, who complained that the
Governor was late in arriving. “Why, I am the man you are looking for,” said Stevens.
This announcement made by the small travel-stained man was enough. The arrival was
announced by vigorous beating on a circular saw hung from a post, and the first
gubernatorial reception was fairly on.
* * * *
Olympia and Washington Territory were the temporary residences of a number of men
who were later on to distinguish themselves in the Civil War. Gen. Grant was stationed
at Fort Vancouver in 1853, and Gen. Sheridan helped to subdue the Indians east of the
mountains. At Olympia were Gov. Stevens, who was to give up his life at Chantilly, and
McClellan, who was to fail as a military commander and to be recalled as chief of the
Union forces. Captain Wilkes explored Puget Sound in the early “40s and later
distinguished himself by well-nigh involving his country in war with England by his
audacious capture of Mason and Slidell. J. Paton Anderson, first United States Marshall
in Washington, resided in Olympia. He was a prominent Confederate leader.
General Picket, who led the gallant but disastrous charge at Gettysburg, when
Virginia charged and waged
A tigress in her wrath encaged
Till all the hill was red and wet,
was stationed on the lower Sound and figured largely in the dispute over the San Juan
Archipelago. Gen. Picket had a son by an Indian woman. This boy was named James
Pickett, or “Jimmy” as he was familiarly called, and he attended school in Olympia for
some time. He was a boy of more than ordinary attainments generally, with a strong
predilection for painting and drawing. He was by no means disowned by his
distinguished father, who was planning to take the boy east for the purpose of finishing
Pg17
his education, which plan was frustrated by the death of the General. Jimmy died in
Portland, Oregon.
* * * *
Capt. Wilkes commanded the San Jacinto while exploring Puget Sound. Much of the
geographical nomenclature of the upper Puget Sound country was bestowed by the
Wilkes party. Port Madison was named after President Madison. Harstein Island was
named after Lieut. Hartstein, of the expedition, and Pickering Passage after Pickering, the
naturalist. The waterway leading to Shelton was named Hammersley Inlet, for a
midshipman. Budd’s Inlet was named after Acting Master Thomas A. Budd. The
waterway south of Harstein was named Dana’s Passage, after the mineralogist. Eld Inlet
was named after Midshipmen Henry Eld. All the men named above were connected to
the Wilkes Expedition.
Referring to this latter name Professor Edmund S. Meany, in a recent address before a
pioneers’ meeting, said it was a shame that Olympians, as well as others, had permitted
themselves to fall into the habit of calling one of the most beautiful inlets on Puget Sound
by the name of “Mud Bay”, when in fact it had an authorized geographical designation.
The name Olympia was bestowed by Charles H. Smith, who together with M. T.
Simmons, had established a store at the corner of Second and Main streets. The name
suggests the idea that even in this remote region and in crude environment there were
those conversant with classics. Also that it was suggested by the beautiful view spread
out before them, where the north of the Olympic range was visible and to the east Rainier
reared his majestic head.
* * * *
President Pierce appointed Gov. Stevens, who beside performing the duties of Governor
was also to act as Superintendent of Indian Affairs. As if these commissions were not
sufficient, he was put in command of the party to survey
Pg18
a railroad route from the Mississippi river to Puget Sound. There were 250 men in this
party, including army officers and scientists. When Gov. Stevens’ report, printed later,
proved a northern route practicable, he was brought into direct conflict with Jefferson
Davis, then Secretary of War, and later President of the ill-starred Southern Confederacy.
Davis endeavored in every way to belittle the work of Stevens, as he himself was exerting
every effort to encourage a Southern route, but Steven’s report proved a splendid
monument to his ability as an engineer.
Pg19
Town of Olympia Incorporated
Early Schools and Churches. A Militant School Teacher Enforces Discipline
The Town of Olympia was incorporated January 29, 1959, the election being held the
April following. The incorporating act designated Geo. A. Barnes, T. F. McElroy, Jas.
Tilton, Jos. Cushman and Elwood Evans as Trustees. At the election in April Elwood
Evans, Geo. A. Barnes, Edwin Marsh, W. D. Dunlap and Isaac Lightner were elected
Trustees. Geo. A Barnes became the first Mayor.
The Federal census of this year showed a population of 1489 in Thurston County – 967
males, 522 females. Real property valuation $942,990; personal $586,710.
Evidences of advancing civilization preceded municipal organization by at least seven
years, for a school house was built in the fall of 1852, on the northwest corner of Sixth
and Franklin streets. The building was frail and succumbed under a heavy fall of snow
during the winter following. Later a more substantial two-story frame building was
erected, and here, for a number of years, School District No. 1 maintained its school.
Afterward the building was taken over by the county and used as a court house. Later it
was occupied as a printing office, from which the Morning Olympian was published.
The old building has been moved below Third street.
In October, 1855, a stockade was erected along Fourth street from bay to bay, with a
blockhouse at the corner of Main, on which was placed a canon. During the Indian wars
stockades and block houses were built in various parts of Thurston County.
Pg20
In the erection of the stockade in Olympia every man and woman available worked
faithfully on the defense, as did the children who were large enough to be useful. On
November 9, 1855, the Pioneer and Democrat announced as a reason for having missed
an issue of that paper that the employees in the office were either acting as volunteers or
were engaged in the work of fortifying the town.
* * * *
At the time of the organization of the town the people were spiritually served by four
denominations—Methodist, Presbyterian, Episcopalian and Catholic. In 1853 the
Methodists erected a church edifice, as did the Catholics, and on January 1 of that year
Edmund Sylvester donated two lots to the Masons, where was erected a building which
was a Masonic home for many years, and it was here on December 31, 1858, that the
Grand Lodge of the Territory of Washington was organized.
Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth organized the First Presbyterian church in a cooper shop on Fifth
and Columbia, and held services there, later moving to the district school house,
remaining until the church building was completed at Sixth and Franklin.
* * * *
It was not until 1859 that Fourth street was planked from Main east, and the stumps
removed from Main street above Fourth, and the first fire organization, a hook and ladder
company, was consummated.
On August 25, 1860, a contract was let for clearing the capital grounds. Much
dissatisfaction was expressed locally, many feeling the $30,000 appropriated by the
Federal government should have been devoted to the erection of a building.
All former and subsequent historical events in this section fade into insignificance before
the development of April 3, 1869. This was the red letter day in history. A velocipede
appeared on the streets of Olympia. The old settler
Pg21
stood aghast at this evidence of the marvelous progress of his age.
* * * *
The northeast corner of Fourth and Main streets was vacant in the earliest days of the
settlement, and next to the corner and facing on Main street was the store of Edmund
Sylvester, the founder of the town. Here Mr. Sylvester played checkers with all comers
and incidentally sold cigars, tobacco and confectionary, as well as fruit. At the back of
this lot at Fourth and Main was a plenteous spring of pure cold water. In 1864 the city
built a reservoir and established a pump here for the convenience of the public, and here
the “rude four flushers of the hamlet lied.” Politics and general village gossip was here
indulged. Later in the same year a water system was installed and the old town pump had
to go.
* * * *
Absolute candor compels one to admit that School District No. 1 was hard boiled, taking
its character from the scholars attending. Several principals left in disgust or despair,
then Freeman Brown appeared on the scene. He was the father of Fred Brown, later
County Superintendent of Schools. Mr. Brown was a kindly man, mild mannered and
soft speaking. He gave no outward evidence of having unusual strength or of being a
trained athlete. Quite the contrary. But whosoever was deceived thereby was not wise.
The boys who had long held sway in school matters here differed materially with Mr.
Brown regarding discipline. The latter entertained the idea that he should be boss, an
idea not to be tolerated by the boys. Mr. Brown had a very harsh way of emphasizing his
arguments in a controversy, and he was not long in gaining the ascendancy, though his
methods would not be tolerated in these days of sparing the rod and spoiling a perfectly
good child. One day Mr. Brown had occasion to administer merited punishment to a girl,
the daughter of a brawny blacksmith. Later in the day this brawny son of Vulcan went to
the
Pg22
school house to redress the fancied wrongs of his daughter. He was met in a courteous
manner and invited in, but immediately the visitor became violent and gave evidence that
he was there for trouble, and he got it. Our school teacher, on catching the drift, cleared
decks for action and proceeded in a most pugilistic and scientific manner to go around
that father like a cooper around a barrel. And then some one turned off the sunshine for
Mr. Baldwin. His eyes ceased to function at once, and were useless as such, but they
continued to be a study in colors for a month. Mr. Brown was distinctly a man of peace
and was not afraid to fight for it.
A few are still residents of Olympia who received the rudiments of their education in this
old school house and experienced a sentimental regret when it was abandoned. Many are
scattered to the four corners of the earth; some are out in the cemetery as permanent
tenants, two went to the penitentiary, and as many more to the Washington State
Legislature.
Pg23
Women in Pioneer Life
Hardship and Privation Borne Unflinchingly. Olympia Girls That Gained Notoriety
Woman’s name was never written bold in the history of all time, and the preponderance
of her influence has always been for good. If Cleopatra lured Antony to his ruin, there
was a Joan of Arc that took up the banner of France and restored a spineless king. The
characterless Montespan’s evil influence over Louis XIV was later more than counter
balanced by the benign sway and a wise counsel of Maintenon.
So, in our own time and in our own local history, it is recorded that the women came,
bearing without complaint, their part in the dangers and hardships of pioneer life, and
bore a conspicuous part in the foundation-laying of this state.
They led in all movements of education and Christianization. They demanded these
civilizing influences that their children, the native sons and daughters, should not be
deprived of advantages they themselves had enjoyed in their eastern homes.
To fully appreciate the bitter experiences and hardships these women had to endure, the
reader must bear in mind that many refined and cultured ladies were called upon to
abandon comfortable homes in the east to take up the march, shoulder to shoulder with
husband, brother or father, over a trackless plain, harassed by Indians and wild animals,
often without sufficient food and water, ever onward toward a destination of which they
knew nothing, arriving
Pg24
at last, generally in the fall of the year, to witness a scene rendered disheartening with its
cold, wet climate and impenetrable forests. Following is from the diary of a lady
recording experiences on first entering Washington Territory:
“It was dark when we reached Cowlitz Landing. We walked ankle deep in mud to a log
cabin. Here we found a number of rough men, pantaloons in their boots, and so much
hair on their heads and faces that they all looked alike. I was shown into a small room
filled with beds. I was assigned to one and with my family, all of us dressed, occupied it
for the long night, and so fatigued we all slept well.”
But it was not alone the hardships that made pioneering a heroine’s task. These were
soon forgotten, but the pathetic incidents left distinct impressions. Hardly a family
reached the coast without having left at least one member in a shallow grave on the alkali
plains. No time to stop and care for an ailing one. The train must move and the sick and
disabled with it.
One lady, long a resident of Olympia, until her death a few years ago, buried a mother
and three brothers on the plains. Another, who lent her energies for the development of
Olympia in its early days, lost her baby by death in the early morning. No time to lose,
the train must move, and this broken hearted mother was compelled to carry the body of
her child all day that she might have the time to give it a decent burial at camping hour in
the evening.
* * * *
It was a cosmopolitan immigration that took up the march toward the setting sun.
Olympia, from its earliest inception, was peopled by a desirable class. Not all probably
of the class of Vere de Vere, but a hardy people, with the courage of their convictions,
and the women always held morality in high esteem, especially regarding the home.
Living in primitive Olympia was a man with a large family and he was extremely brutal
in his treatment of wife and
Pg25
children. The men of the community were slow to meddle in the family affairs of
another, so the women took the matter in hand and informed the brute, through a
committee, that he would mend his ways or there would be subsequent proceeding in
which he would cut a sorry figure. He was wise and gave no further offense.
The women of Olympia took their part in raising the funds to build the first town hall;
they helped to buy the first hand-brake fire engine; they took an active part in the
construction of the narrow gauge railroad to Tenino. Their method of raising funds for
any specific purpose was generally by means of a “grand ball”, which cost the men $10
to play, including a midnight supper, for they danced until daylight, and such suppers as
would make the modern “banquet” look like a hobo handout.
* * * *
Some of the girls of Olympia in the earlier days gained enviable prominence, and some
others merely notoriety. Among the former was Annie Pixley, who became a famous
actress, and first attracted attention in the play “M’liss,” dramatized from Bret Harte’s
story of that name. Her father toured the Sound country in early days with Annie and her
sister Minnie, as stellar attractions. Their specialties were singing and dancing, and very
good they were for their time. Annie’s greatest achievement was in the character of
Gretchin, played to the famous Joseph Jefferson’s Rip Van Winkle.
May Tilley, daughter of Rice Tilley, a well-to-do liveryman, became the Countess Starva,
and attracted considerable attention in European capitals with her wild west beauty.
Woven into the woof of the life of Lucky Baldwin, the California millionaire, who built
and owned the Baldwin hotel and Baldwin theater, destroyed by the great earthquake,
were the lives of two Olympia-born girls – one shot—him, the other married him. After
Baldwin had acquired his immense fortune he met Verona Baldwin, daughter of
Pg26
an Olympia pioneer. There may have existed a distant relationship. He persuaded her to
go to his ranch in Southern California, there to teach a school. For some injury, real or
fancied, Verona professed to have experienced there she later shot Baldwin on a stairway
in his own hotel in San Francisco. The venerable Lothario survived the wound he
received. There lived in Olympia in 1858 a contractor and builder named A. A. Bennett.
While here a daughter was born to the family. Mr. Bennett later moved to San Francisco
with his family and opened an office as an architect. Lucky Baldwin secured his services
to make certain improvements on his ranch in the south. The architect took his pretty
daughter Lily with him. Thus it was that December met May and a marriage followed,
which act netted the bereaved widow nearly a million on the death of Baldwin, which
occurred after some years of martyrdom – on the part of the survivor.
There lived down on the bay, on the east side, many years ago, a truck gardener, Herbert
Jeal, who came to town frequently with his produce, returning home generally
intoxicated. He had been married in England, lost his wife, and arriving here took unto
himself a squaw helpmate. Our little village became somewhat exercised when it was
rumored that a circus about to come to town there was a lady bareback rider, Linda Jeal,
daughter of our own Herbert. It was a proud time for the old man when he came to town
on a circus day, accompanied by his squaw wife, arrayed in brilliant colors. The talented
daughter, be it said to her credit, gave the old man a gracious reception.
At the same time there was on our theatrical circuit a monologue artist and singer, named
Charles Vivian. He was an exceptionally handsome and talented Englishman, well
educated and an author of his own songs. He is credited with being the founder of the
Elks. Charles Vivian was a great favorite on the Sound. After the show, when he had
taken himself to a saloon, he was especially entertaining. He frequently told with great
glee how Jeal tried to
Pg27
persuade him to marry the fair Linda, graphically portraying how profitable could be
made such a combination of talent.
* * * *
Sentiment, defined by Webster as a noble, tender, artistic feeling, seems to be regulated
in a measure by location. Portland has perpetuated the memory of her pioneers by
naming her streets for them. A few months ago a move was made to change the name of
Stark street to Wall, which aroused such a storm of protest that the proposition died an
unnatural death. Seattle’s avenues are named after the founders of the city. Olympia has
a Tilton street, in the water; a Sylvester street, no one knows where except those living on
it. Olympia’s sentiment is expressed in Quince street, Pear street, Plum street,
Gooseberry street, ad nauseam.
Pg28
The First Circus
An International Baseball Game. Enthusiastic Reception of Good War News
Breathes there a boy with soul so dread that he cannot recall his first circus experience.
The first tented show to appear in Olympia was in 1868, which was known as
Bartholomew’s Circus, which pitched its tend on the north half of the block to the west
side of Main Street [Capitol Way], between Fourth and Fifth. Its arrival occurring late in
the day little time was allowed for preparation for the evening performance. The seats
had been put up so hurriedly that soon after the audience assembled, and when the grand
entry was about to occur, the seats collapsed and went down. Wild pandemonium
prevailed, but order was soon restored and the seats again erected. No sooner had the
audience become quiet than the seats again went down. Bartholomew, much of a
gentleman and evidently an honest man, came into the ring and made a talk, regretting
the occurrences and saying it now rested with the people, he would make another attempt
to go on with the performance or he would refund admittance money and give up. The
people would not listen to the latter alternative, demanding that the show go on and
assuring Bartholomew they would stay with him right loyally until rosy dawn tined the
eastern sky. The show did go on very successfully, and proved a very good one for its
time. The second aggregation attempted the trip from Portland to Olympia by water. A
storm overtook the steamer and much of the best stock was lost, and what horses
remained on reaching Olympia were hoisted from the hold of the steamer in slings and
deposited
Pg29
on the dock helpless. Thus the first two circus ventures to a pioneer town proved
disastrous.
* * * *
As a rule the early residents were thrown on their own resources for entertainment, but
occasionally a barn-storming aggregation, with more valor than discretion, would stroll in
and attempt more or less ambitious performances. In 1862 a theatrical company
harrowed the sensitive feelings of Olympians for one whole week, committing desperate
outrages on the “Lady of Lyons,” “Lucretia Borgia,” “David Copperfield,” etc. The
people were hungry for entertainment and permitted the torture to proceed.
Charles Vivian, father of the Order of Elks, made his first appearance here August 17,
1872. He was reputed to be a graduate of an English University. At any rate he wrote his
own songs, and they all had merit, notably “Castles in the Air” and “Ten Thousand Miles
Away”. Vivian’s first appearance on the street here created a mild sensation. The
prevailing dress for men in those days as a rule was jumper and overalls, and these went
morning, afternoon and after candlelight—at least till bedtime. Imagine then the
consternation prevailing when Vivian, himself a very handsome man, strolled out of the
hotel in patent leather shoes, lavender trousers, black velvet sack coat, white vest, gray
crush hat and exceptional linen and neckwear. So much did the village yokels suffer by
comparison that all proposed and prospective matrimonial bets were declared off, at least
until the defendants could measure up to Vivian’s sartorial standard. It was reported at
the time, though the rumor was not confirmed, that a man in a saloon having seen the
vision, remarked he guessed he would go and buy a white shirt, whereupon an
enterprising townsman remarked: “No use; I have bought all the white shirts in town, and
I’ve got ’em all on.”
* * * *
Olympia, in early days, was not without its baseball team, in which it took great pride in
the days of under-
Pg30
hand pitching. Several match games were played with Victoria, and Olympia was victor
each time. The English knew more of their national game of cricket, and had not
perfected themselves in America’s favorite sport. About the time these games were being
played the matter of the San Juan controversy was on, involving Uncle Sam and Great
Britain. The dispute was in the hands of Emperor William of Germany for arbitration.
On the day the first game was to be played there was conspicuously posted at the post
office a telegram in proper form on a Western Union blank, reading as follows:
Washington D.C., July 16
Governor Washington Territory:
Emperor William, having in hand the matter of the San Juan controversy, has concluded
to base his decision on the result of the baseball contest between Olympia and Victoria.
Secretary of State.
Thus inspired the Olympia boys went in and won. It is barely possible that the illustrious
grandsire of a degenerate grandson never heard of the game, but the victorious
Olympians came from the field with breasts distended like pouter pigeons, plainly
conscious of having won an empire for their Uncle.
* * * *
The residents of Olympia were intensely patriotic during the Rebellion. There was a
minority from the border states who entertained Southern sympathy, but they were
undemonstrative. One night when news of an important Union victory had been received
two prominent citizens, fired with patriotic zeal and liquefied enthusiasm, bought up all
the visible supply of powder in town, went to the foot of Main street, where stood an old
canon that had been dumped there by a revenue cutter in Indian war time. This gun they
proceeded to put into action by placing it in position in the middle of the street aiming
north and proceeded to fire. Following each recoil of the gun they proceeded up Main
street, until they reached the front of the saloon owned by one of the gunners. Here they
paused for refreshment.
Pg31
They took one drink, maybe more. Anyway their enthusiasm had increased considerably
and they increased the charge for the gun proportionately, the concussion from which put
the saloon man out of business until he could replenish his stock of glass tumblers. In
fact shingles were the prevailing fashion in window sashes along Main street until the
next San Francisco steamer arrived. But the good citizens accepted the destruction as
right and absolutely necessary as a proper expression of their gratification over a Union
victory.
Pg32
First Governor’s Reception
Some Divorce Abuses. Early History of Woman Suffrage. Scarcity of Women
Deplored.
Pioneer life was not all hardship, nor was this existence entirely devoid of social
enjoyment. The pioneer’s attendance on a function was not in response to a handsomely
engraved card, nor did they come garbed in the conventional dress suit. Those were the
days when a man’s list of acquaintances included the population of the town, and
everyone knew each other by his or her first name. No class distinctions, no caddish
display of assumed superiority. One unwise enough to be guilty of this unpardonable sin
would meet with a social ostracism that would make him feel as lonesome as a
Republican in Texas, a Democrat in the Washington State Legislature or a Bourbon in the
Thurston county court house. There was a state of simon-pure socialism. There were no
rich, but no one was allowed to want. The cent per center had not invaded their earthly
paradise, and what one possessed was for the general benefit of all. The lived far from
civilization of the higher order, in a pent-up Utica, and their feeling of dependence made
them kin.
The initial social event of note in Olympia was the first state reception held by Gov.
Stevens and wife in the old mansion on Eleventh and Main streets. The governor built
this house soon after his arrival, and it was then considered quite palatial on completion.
The invitations were general and met with a hearty response. The mansion stood alone in
solemn grandeur, for the town consisted of a cluster of small buildings below Fourth
street. The night of the reception was very dark and the trail leading
Pg33
to the scene rough, narrow and muddy. Lanterns were hung every few feet from the
branches of trees to guide the guests.
A dance followed the reception, and then a supper. There have followed occasions of
greater pomp and ceremony in later days, but none equal to this in wholesome enjoyment.
This same house was later the scene of a social event that had a rather amusing incident
as a sequel. When President Hayes, on a trip to this coast, visited Olympia, he and Mrs.
Hayes were entertained by Gov. and Mrs. Ferry, who then made their home in the old
Stevens house. Gov. Ferry and a citizen’s committee took the President out to see a real
forest, while Mrs. Ferry entertained the ladies at a dinner. This repast was well featured
with Puget Sound products, which called forth much favorable comment. As the ladies
were retiring to the parlor Mrs. Ferry was called into the kitchen, and then marched the
cook into the parlor with a huge platter of fried chicken. This important part of the feast
had been forgotten. The President’s wife laughingly told her hostess that she had been
fed up on chicken, and enjoyed all the more the products of the Sound, including oysters,
clams and fish, made more palatable by the oversight.
* * * *
The mention of society naturally suggests the subject of divorce, as they seem to be
intimately related these days. Fayette McMullen was the second Governor of the State
[Territory], and all the evidence seemed to give credence to the report that he came out
here to get a divorce, which he did by legislative enactment and married an Olympia
belle, Miss Mary Wood. Legislative divorces were quite the thing in early days, and so
flagrant became the abuse that Gov. Pickering, in his message to the Legislature in 1862,
made urgent demand to stop the evil. Notwithstanding this that same session passed
sixteen divorce bills. In 1866 the Legislature declared marriage to be a civil contract,
which
Pg34
compelled disillusionized [sic] ones in the future to resort to the courts to be relieved of
galling matrimonial yokes.
* * * *
The question of woman suffrage was ever a burning issue in the Territory and State of
Washington until it was finally disposed of by Federal provision. In the first Territorial
Legislature a bill was introduced conferring suffrage on white women. It did not get far.
From 1870 on Mrs. Abigail Scott Duniway, in her paper and on the rostrum, kept a
vigorous campaign in Oregon and Washington. In 1871 the Legislature passed a law in
relation to woman suffrage, which was brief and to the point, as follow